What Others Aren’t Telling You About “Low Carb” Dog Food

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You, my two-legged friend, are doing everything right for your four-legger. Searching for a low-carb diet, muah, beautiful, you are on the right path. 

The problem is there’s a lot of marketing jargon out there– crafted messaging that’s going to say– 

    • Buy this recipe– it’s the lowest in carbs. 
    • Meat is the first ingredient! 
    • No grains or fillers!

But that, up there? That does little to tell you anything other than buy x, y, or z food.  We want to cut through all of the fluff and marketing spin and tell you what no one else will. That’s why we’re pulling back the curtain and letting you in on exactly what needs to be in your dog’s bowl based on a veterinarian’s 30+ years of experience feeding real, whole DIY raw balanced diets.

On the Agenda

Cutting Through Marketing Jargon & Claims

“No corn, soy, or wheat, gluten, grains, fillers” are all words pet parents long for! But what is it saying about the ingredients that are in the bag? To cut through these shiny terms, you’ll actually want to disregard the majority of the packaging, starting with these claims.

The Term “Low Carb” Doesn’t Tell You Anything

The current regulatory standards regarding a statement like “low carb” make buying food all the more confusing since the statement is only used in comparison to another recipe or brand. And what’s worse is that marketers are defining the term in an effort to differentiate their brand, not veterinarians.  With such ambiguity around its definition, you can’t let this term influence your buying decisions.

Take these snippets from a post that’s supposed to be a guide to the best low-carb options on the market.

“____is a high-quality dry dog food. Its nutrient profile is significantly above average…and a significantly low proportion of carbohydrates.” compared to what, exactly? A dog food with 50 or 60% carbohydrates? 

What they can use are comparative claims, such as “25% less than” another product.

“This formula is the highest-protein, lowest carb multigrain formula for dogs of All Life Stages from X company.”  

They are saying lowest-carb in comparison to the other recipes their brand offers, not that it is low-carb.

Per AAFCO, the GA or the Guaranteed Analysis can not list carbohydrates– so any brand leveraging the term really could contain any amount of carbs. Frankly, the term “low carb” is no more than an opinion, and to get to the facts, you need to ask the hard questions.

“Grain-Free” Does Not Equal Low Carb

Grain-free claims shouldn’t automatically be considered healthier. Recipes can simply replace high-carb grains (corn, wheat, rice) with other high-carb ingredients like starches (chickpeas, potato, legumes like soy, peas, and lentils).

The come-to-dog moment here is that you can’t simply swap ingredients like feeding 80% peas instead of 80% grains.

NEITHER ARE SPECIES APPROPRIATE for your carnivore

That’s why the “grain-free”  label isn’t always synonymous with high-quality pet food and why you shouldn’t let it dictate what you’re buying.

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“#1 Ingredient is Meat” Claims Don’t Guarantee Less Carbs Either

The only steadfast rule, per AAFCO, is that the 1st ingredient listed on an ingredient label has to be the largest part of the recipe. 

That means the first ingredient could make up 70% of the recipe or as little as 10%, with the 2nd ingredient making up 9.9999% of the recipe, the 3rd ingredient 9.9998% of the recipe, and so on. If that’s the case, then suddenly, the first 10 ingredients are now just as important to consider.

Carbohydrate content in the average kibble or dry dog food can range drastically– anywhere from 30% – 70% carbs in a recipe, and you won’t know which it is because neither the ingredient label nor the GA is telling, So, you have to roll up your sleeves and bring out the calculator.

The Only Way To Determine If It’s Low Carb Is To Calculate Carbs

With general claims, it leaves the pet parent to do a lot of the heavy lifting, unfortunately. You should have every fact and figure to make the most informed decisions, so here’s the information you need to arm yourself with in your search.

How to calculate carb content

Start by finding the guaranteed analysis.  

Dry Matter Basis– use this for kibble, freeze-dried, dehydrated recipes

100% – % protein – % fat – % moisture – % ash (if not listed, use 6 percent) = % carbs

*Fiber is roughage that doesn’t break down into sugar, so it’s not included.*

100% -23% -13% -10% – 6% = 48% carbohydrates (yeesh)

Wet Matter Basis– use this for canned and commercial raw food recipes.

100% – % protein – % fat – % moisture – % ash (if not listed, use 6 percent)= % of carbs on a wet matter basis. 

100% – 10% protein – 5% fat – 78% moisture -3.3 % ash = 3.7% on wet matter basis

To convert to DM basis– take the % of moisture and subtract that from 100%. (Then, convert this percentage to a decimal, divide by 100.)

100% -78% moisture= 22/100 = .22 OR 22%

Take the % of carbs on a wet matter basis and divide by the decimal and you’ve got the carbohydrates on a DM basis. 

3.7% wet matter/ 22%= 16.8% carbs on DM basis

You can use these calculations to find the carbohydrates in cat and dog foods, so keep these handy.

Is there a % that’s considered “low carbohydrate”?

You’re looking for a low-carbohydrate dog food that’s no more than 25% carbohydrates or so (but the less, the better). 

Frankly, kibble doesn’t meet this criterion.

It’s Not Just About Carb %– Some Carbs Are Better Than Others

Pet foods championing for low-carb food options is really fluffin’ fantastic news– truly. Because despite life-threatening diseases being positively linked with overweight dogs and cats, pet obesity is still rising and reaching epidemic proportions. 

U.S. statistics from 2018 showed that more than half – 53.9% of dogs and 58.9% of cats – are not just overweight; they are obese. More than half. 

In the U.S., severe obesity among humans has effectively doubled in the past two decades, and our pets are right there with us.

So, YES, low-carb is an ABSOLUTE must that’s not up for debate– what is, is whether being low-carb is the best and only metric to consider when looking for dog food. Is it the only one that gauges whether a food is providing what your dog needs to thrive?

Frankly, it’s a bit reductive just to say pick this low-carb food. Instead, you need to ask where those carbs come from in the recipe– what foods are picked and why.

Simple vs Complex Carbs

Fruits and vegetables, along with grains, starches, and legumes, all have varying amounts of carbohydrates. 

Foods that fall in the simple carbs category provide minimal nutrition to dogs. Complex carbohydrates, on the other hand, include fruits and vegetables that provide some of the most crucial nutrients. The complex carb category may contain starches (like sweet potatoes), but complex carbs also contain those sought-after nutrients.

Some of the most beneficial nutrition comes from plants in the modern dog’s diet, it’s simply about picking with a purpose. 

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Opt for superfoods that offer diversity in your carnivore’s diet, so you provide key nutrients that a dog’s diet cannot get from meat alone.

Note: We want to be very clear here. We are not saying that a dog can survive on plants alone. A quality diet is filled with real, whole, quality meats (NOT meat meals) and then lesser amounts of produce. That’s why you need to be judicious and pick plants with purpose.

Glycemic Index

Certain foods like fruits and veggies  — especially brightly colored ones– contain carbohydrates, but they are digested slower and promote stable blood sugar levels, which is why they have a low GI value.

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Corn, wheat, rice, potatoes, and other starchy carbohydrates are deemed high GI because they cause spikes in blood sugar– put in the simplest terms, this is the link to obesity and diabetes.

Knowing that high-glycemic carbs (like wheat or corn) do a whole lot more damage than a low-glycemic carb (like spinach), we just need to choose the right plants– low-glycemic fruits, vegetables, and seeds in proper proportions for the carnivore (remember 25% or fewer carbohydrates).

Opt for low-glycemic superfoods but by no means shy away from medium glycemic superfoods. Remember, if they are fed in species-appropriate proportions, you’re using them for all of those unmatched nutrients!

Carbs Aren’t The Only Thing to Consider When Picking A Food

The % of carbs is just one (small) portion of a carnivore’s diet but again a CRUCIAL part. Whatever carbs are in a recipe should actually serve a purpose– to fill in the gaps of a diet where meat can’t. 

It’s a lot to digest, but all you really need to focus on is feeding your scavenger carnivore a biologically appropriate diet.  

  • 15% – 25% nutrient-dense, low-glycemic fruits, vegetables, and seeds

  • 70-80% meat-based proteins 

Follow that, skip the marketing jargon and flowery prose, and don’t be afraid to get on the phone and ask.

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If you want a low-carb food for dogs right here and now, the Simple Food Project offers recipes that check all the boxes you’re looking for because Dr. Bessent wanted to provide her clients with a better option. These recipes are freeze-dried and dehydrated and made with only 16 real, raw whole food ingredients and fit for the carnivore– high in protein (70-80% per recipe- all USDA inspected) and low in carbohydrates (15-23% from fresh fruits, veggies, and seeds).

Whatever you do, you’ve got these tools to sidestep the dodgy carb-o-loaded dog foods, so don’t hesitate to use them!

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Dr. Chris Bessent

Chris Bessent, DVM, MSOM, Dipl. OM, L.Ac. has over thirty years of experience in veterinary medicine including certificates in veterinary acupuncture, veterinary chiropractic and veterinary Chinese herbology. Imbued with Eastern philosophy and the knowledge that food is the foundation of health, Dr. Bessent also received her degree in veterinary nutrition and began to formulate recipes fit for a carnivore from nothing but whole foods. Currently, she divides her time between the Simple Food Project and Herbsmith, both of which are owned and operated out of her facilities in southeastern Wisconsin.

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Kayla

Kayla is the Content Writer for The Simple Food Project. She has a cat named Professor Cat-Faced Meowmers, who goes by Kitty, and a goof of a dog, named Duck. She stays busy biking trails, playing board games, and searching for the next best craft beer.

6 Ingredients in Cat “Food” That Aren’t Meant To Be Eaten

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Mr. McWhiskers is a pure delight. He only scratches the sofa sometimes (he’s very polite that way), he’s an excellent coworker and sits on your laptop right on time every day, and he takes all your outfits to the next level with the refined layer of hair he leaves behind.

Mr. McWhiskers deserves the best in every way — especially in terms of what he eats (because let’s be honest, Mr. McWhiskers LOVES to eat).

But is he eating ingredients that aren’t meant to be eaten?

We’re not talking about the occasional pillow stuffing that just somehow escaped from the pillow. Or a thread from that sock he stole.

No. We’re talking about ingredients within his cat food. Ingredients that manufacturers put in his food intentionally. Ingredients that you would never dream of eating.

You know that long list of ingredients on the back of the cat food bag? Yep. That’s where you’ll find these doozy ingredients. And the actual uses of these ingredients (i.e. their proper, non-food uses) should raise some red flags. Like — giant, wildly-flapping-in-the-wind, neon red flags.

On the Agenda

The Problem(s) With Kibble

Many pet parents choose to feed kibble. True, it’s a convenient choice — but convenience comes with some scary tradeoffs.

Kibble is heavily processed and often has a shelf life of decades. It’s akin to junk food. Yes, it’s cheap and convenient, but it often causes obesity and numerous health problems down the road. Plus, it doesn’t properly nourish the body — even though it can cause obesity. Kibble leads to overfed and undernourished pets.

It’s also worth noting how kibble is made. In production, the kibble is heated to extremely high temperatures — 275-572 degrees F. The idea is that this temperature will kill pathogens (which it does), but it also ends up killing healthy components like antioxidants and enzymes. Additionally, when proteins and carbohydrates are heated to such high temperatures, they become toxic and/or carcinogenic (read: cancer-causing). 

This is serious stuff. Our four-leggers deserve better.

Many Cat “Foods” Contain Ingredients That Are Not FOOD

Okay, so we know some concerning things about kibble. Now let’s get to the nitty-gritty — the specific ingredients that should make you run

Let’s demystify some of the ickiest and most dangerous ingredients for your cat. We’ll cover 1) what the ingredients are and 2) what they are supposed to be used for (hint: not food).

Powdered Cellulose

What is it: Cellulose is a fibrous plant-based compound. It comes from plants, which doesn’t sound too alarming, but don’t be fooled. This is not meant to be eaten by cats — or anyone, for that matter. 

What is it supposed to be used for: Cellulose is typically used to make paper and fabrics. It’s also used in household items like sponges and glue. The form often found in cat food is derived from sawdust, which is considered a “byproduct” or “waste” from wood. Sawdust is great for various landscaping uses and to soak up spills, but it is certainly not meant for Mr. McWhiskers to have for dinner.

Food Dyes (Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Red 40, Blue 2)

What is it: Food dyes are artificial chemicals that can provide color to many foods (ever had a lollipop that left your tongue blue for hours?).

What is it supposed to be used for: Well, coloring food at best. But we have to ask if this is really necessary — especially for CATS! Does your cat really care or even see what color her food is?  Colors are often added to make the food look more enticing to you (the consumer, not your cat).  But artificial colors just aren’t worth the cancer risk. Yep, food dyes are known carcinogens for animals. No, thank you. It’s just not worth it.

Ethoxyquin 

What is it: Ethoxyquin is a synthetic preservative meant to prevent rancidity. 

What is it supposed to be used for: Certainly not food! Ethoxyquin is banned for direct use in human food (it’s toxic if it touches the skin or is swallowed), but it is allowed in pet food — that should be a red flag right there. And the scientific community has some pretty big concerns relating to toxicity that can lead to autoimmune disorders, reproductive damage, cancer, and more.

BHT and BHA 

What is it: These are closely related synthetic chemical preservatives (often in dry cat food and human food like cereal and packaged snacks).

What is it supposed to be used for: In addition to being used as food additives, BHT and BHA are commonly used in beauty products, plastic, gasoline, wax, paint, and more (ew). What’s even worse? They’re known carcinogens.

Meat and Bone Meals 

What is it: Meat and bone meals are a mysterious mixture from sources such as roadkill, expired food from grocery stores, and inedible byproducts from slaughterhouses. These meals often contain bones and feathers and very little (if any) valuable parts like muscle meat, which is reserved for human consumption. The meal is formed through a high temperature and high-pressure process that essentially converts carcasses and byproducts into a powdery substance — and that is what goes into your pet’s food (yikes).

What is it supposed to be used for: Well, compost at best. Meat and bone meals are often essentially garbage that’s being repurposed as food for our pets. We’re all about repurposing, recycling, and sustainability, but here’s something we’re not about: feeding our pets unhealthy and unsafe waste.

Glucose and Grains (Wheat, Corn, Rice)

What is it: Here are some familiar and recognizable ingredients (finally)! We’re going to assume you know what grains are. And as a Biology 101 reminder, glucose is a simple sugar and a component of carbohydrates.

What is it supposed to be used for: This category is a little different. For other species (like humans or goats), grains are perfectly appropriate. The issue is that the grain is not species-appropriate for cats. Have you ever felt like your kitty is hungry all the time? Well, that’s because she’s not getting the nutrition she really needs. Cats simply cannot process high-carbohydrate ingredients like grains and fillers. A high-meat diet is absolutely imperative to their survival. So even if your kitty eats a seemingly appropriate amount of food each day, she still won’t get the nutrition she needs if that food is filled with carbohydrates. (You can learn more with “Cats and Kibble”).

What Cats Need to Thrive

Cats are obligate carnivores, which means their entire body is designed for hunting and consuming prey — meat. Anything other than meat in their diet should be limited, and carbohydrates (from produce and seeds) must be predigested. (Learn more with “Cat: The True Carnivore”). When you’re choosing a food for your cat, always look for high meat content (like 80-90%) and ingredients you recognize

Your cat deserves real, whole food — not “cat food” that isn’t actually food at all. We know that health starts with what’s in the bowl, so fill it with everything your cat needs to truly thrive!

Meat. Your cat would like us to emphasize once again that the answer is meat — and just to be clear, we’re talking raw meats and not meat meals (shudder).

And don’t forget about antioxidants and omegas, which support a healthy inflammatory response, boost heart health, foster a robust immune system, and promote healthy aging. Adding these doesn’t have to be complicated. In fact, single ingredients like krill can provide a supercharged daily dose of both these nutrients.

You can even learn to curate the bowl for your cat, filling it with the quality staples that all cats need and going beyond the basics to tailor a plan for your unique four-legger.

There are a lot of ways for you to give Mr. McWhiskers the nutrition he needs to thrive. The solution isn’t one-size-fits-all. Maybe you want to try DIY raw. Or maybe that’s a bit too much of an endeavor. In that case, another great option would be freeze-dried whole food nutrition like The Simple Food Project recipes.

Regardless, it’s safe to say several ingredients absolutely do not belong in your cat’s bowl. Now that you know what they are — and the non-food purposes they actually serve — you can make healthier choices for Mr. McWhiskers for years to come.

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Dr. Chris Bessent

Chris Bessent, DVM, MSOM, Dipl. OM, L.Ac. has over thirty years of experience in veterinary medicine including certificates in veterinary acupuncture, veterinary chiropractic and veterinary Chinese herbology. Imbued with Eastern philosophy and the knowledge that food is the foundation of health, Dr. Bessent also received her degree in veterinary nutrition and began to formulate recipes fit for a carnivore from nothing but whole foods. Currently, she divides her time between the Simple Food Project and Herbsmith, both of which are owned and operated out of her facilities in southeastern Wisconsin.

CONNECT WITH ME ON FACEBOOK
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Hayley - Content Writer

Hayley is a freelance writer based in Northern California. (Writing for the Simple Food Project is her favorite, but don't spread it around.) She enjoys riding horses, taking road trips, and eating grilled cheese sandwiches. Her foster dogs have mixed feelings about the spinach she keeps trying to sneak into their bowls.

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Kayla - Content Editor

Kayla is the Content Editor for The Simple Food Project. She has a cat named Professor Cat-Faced Meowmers, who goes by Kitty, and a goof of a dog, named Duck. She stays busy biking trails, losing at board games, and searching for the next best craft beer.